A Travellerspoint blog

Patzcuaro to Morelia

Country to City

We left Zijuatanejo relaxed, warm and happy for many swims in the Pacifico ocean. In my humble opinion, there is just nothing quite like swimming in highly salinated water. I can actually float, and for this gal who sinks like a stone in the pool at home, it is a treat to lay on the surface like a starfish with next to no effort!

This is how relaxation at Casa de las Suenos (House of Dreams) looks!

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We boarded a bus to Patzcuaro, our next destination, and were told it would take approximately 4-4 1/2 hrs. Of course that would be Mexican hours!

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Beautiful scenery enroute.

We arrived 6 1/2 hrs later to our B&B and wow what an amazing place it was. We had decided to splurge on a little comfort, but were unprepared for what we walked into. The home had been completely renovated and added to in true Mexican style. Quite simply it was exquisite. Our hosts Vicky & Eric were gracious, incredibly helpful and plain fun. We enjoyed coffee with them each morning in their garden under a huge avocado tree that thankfully did not drop fruit on us! The tree was indeed loaded with fruit as it is harvest time in this region
Check out their home at www.posada-yolihuani.com

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Patzcuaro is a very old village and at one time vied to be the capital of the state of Michoacan. The building facades in the central district are all painted the same colours, brown and cream with store names and numbers in red & black lettering . Rod commented that it looked a little military, however we have since learned this is a government requirement to identify the "downtown" area and is present in all small communities too.

Patzcuaro centro streets - the military look...

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The Biblioteca & mural inside - amazing!

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Still operating secondary school - an incredibly well built building
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The town square or Plaza Principal is absolutely charming and filled with folks at any time of day from all walks: lovers "sucking face " (our slang), families, biz folk, mothers and daughters walking arm in arm....am sure you get the idea. Even the trees are happy as they emanate music from speakers tied around each one! Evening is even more charming as the plaza is illuminated and every building sports a turn of the century looking lamp Really very European!

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We happened to arrive on a festival weekend which is always fun. On Saturday in the Plaza Principal scores of budding and experienced artists of all ages began creating chalk art for many hours. It was fantastic! Music is also ever present from a solo accordion player to tubas & swirling dancers in the street. Love love the energy.

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Truly inspirational as a lot of the art spoke to peace among friends, families, pueblos and world peace.

We took 2 side trips from Patzcuaro - one to an archaeological site called Tzintzuntzan and another to Santa Clara del Cobre, a copper making community. Both were fantastic days.

Tzintzuntzan was a surprise as the architecture of the ruinas was so very different than anything we have ever seen. The walls were round and undulating, very different than the more linear way of building we are so used to seeing. The outside of the walls appeared to be sheathed in cut volcanic stone, probably retrieved from a few miles away.

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View of the lake that Patzcuaro is located near.

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Santa Clara de Cobre is famous for copper smithing. We arrived at a local taller (workshop), and watched a demonstration of copper making in the traditional style. It is incredibly labour intensive but the outcomes are so beautiful, truly pieces of art.

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We were invited to "hammer" the molten copper and later do some hand hammering as the product worked towards completion. Hard hard work. The end result however was the crowning of the King & Queen!

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After 4 days in our luxurious B&B we decided to head to the capital, Morelia as we had heard it was a beautiful colonial city with many side trips to enjoy. All stories are true! It is a fantastic city. We have moved into an apartment in a lovingly restored colonial house in the central district close to all sorts of good things - markets, sights, music and a Spanish school.

We have already visited the main cathedral - breathtaking and ornate but in a much lighter way than the Iglesia Santa Domingo of Oaxaca.

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We were given a heads up by one of our neighbours, that there would be a free outdoor classical music concert taking place in the Jardin de Rosas (garden of roses) the other day. The musicians were from the prestigious conservatory across the street and the music was traditional Michoacan. Amazingly lovely. I thought Rod was going to float away he was so intoxicated by it!!

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So we are off to a wonderful start here, feeling very comfy and "at home" in a city of 1 million. Hard to fathom that. We have signed up for classes next week hopefully to learn not be humiliated!

Hasta luego nuestro amigos.

Carolina y Rodrigo

Posted by Carole and Rod 19:28

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Comments

this is amazing. I am gob smacked that we live on the same continent, yet we're so adolescent in our development. I loved the circular/round stone building...did you get to go inside? This juxtaposed a few frames later by the most magnificent of churches/cathedral? And the copper smithing...wow. Continue your "education/not humiliation". with love
mjw

by Marlyn Wall

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